Everyone's photos, videos and docs, with the keywords: "Arduino"

Ivrea - Duomo di Santa Maria

nobody@ipernity.com (Martin M. Miles) — Thu, 15 Dec 2016 11:45:24 +0000

The first Christian church was built here at the site of a Roman temple in the 4th century. A tree nave basilica existed in the 9th century. A Romanesque cathedral was built, when Bishop Warmund (= Warmondo) had his episcopal see here, end of the 10th century. It is known, that this church had a "westwerk", following the Ottonian architecture, popular at that time north of the Alpes.

Alterations and rebuildings were undertaken in the 13th, 15th and 16th century. In 1785 it was rebuilt again in a Baroque style. The eastern part of the church, with the crypt, the apse and the two towers suvived the "modernisation" of the 18th century, as well as this last part of the medieval cloister.

Probably here (and in the Bishop´s palace) a land dispute was discussed between Bishop Warmund and Arduin of Ivrea, who had become Margrave of Ivrea in 990. This was a conflict between the regional (North-Italian) nobility and the (German) emperors, who appointed the bishops.

From 996 to 998, Warmund was forced from his see by Arduin. After in 999 the bishop of Vercelli was killed when Arduin's men, who had burned down his church with him and his canons inside, Warmund excommunicated Arduin. This did not stop Arduin´s career, he became King of Italy in 1002.

Actually Arduin was still remembered here, when at the university of Ivrea, a group of enthusiasts created "Arduino", a small open source computer, that became very popular wordwide.

NTX2B arduino

nobody@ipernity.com (SV1XV) — Sun, 18 Oct 2015 14:30:04 +0000

SV1XV has posted:

Demo Code to Drive a Radiometrix NTX2B RTTY beacon via PWM. Written by Anthony Stirk M0UPU, RTTY code from Rob Harrison Icarus Project.

ukhas.org.uk/guides:linkingarduinotontx2

A Brain for Dolly

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Thu, 10 Apr 2014 06:42:23 +0000

Revenki has posted:

The "production" version of the Arduino shield stack used to run the camera dolly.

In order to fit in a reasonable sized box, I combined five functions into one: the limit switches from the dolly, the camera interface, the button interface for controlling the electronics, the interface for the display, and a piezo beeper.

After taking this picture, I ended up having to rewire the optoisolators (middle top) and troubleshoot a crossed wire in the display header (lower left), and added the headers in the upper right for the lines to the camera remote and limit switch panel jacks. Not bad. I was expecting more than two screwups, and it was really only one (the display header) when you consider all the inexplicable trouble I've had with optoisolators - I figured those would turn out to be wired wrong no matter what I did, and I was right.

Now to build the box, and finish the software.

A Brain for Dolly

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Thu, 10 Apr 2014 06:41:23 +0000

Revenki has posted:

The "production" version of the Arduino shield stack used to run the camera dolly.

On the bottom of the stack is an Arduino Mega 2650. Then comes the hand-made card with five different circuits: a resistor ladder and socket for the controller's input buttons, the breakout and socket for the display harness, the OR-gate and resistor network for the limit switches, the opto-isolators for driving the camera via wired remote, and a little piezo beeper. Finally comes the Rugged stepper motor controller card.

12V input power drives the dolly via the green connector on the right (the stepper card helpfully feeds power to everything else). The little pot on the left side of the middle card controls the contrast on the display, whose harness plugs into the adjacent black header.

Everything is connectorized, due to lessons learned from the lightning trigger project - every switch, plug, etc. can be dismantled from it's associated board either by pulling a connector out or loosening a screw post. This came in handy when I got the first copy of the faceplate together and discovered it wouldn't fit in the box I'd bought - had everything not been connectorized, I'd have had to tediously de-solder everything, breaking the tested configuration and requiring it all to be tested again after it was reassembled on the new faceplate. (A trick I learned working on rockets. Don't ever say your defense procurement dollars are totally wasted.)

Lightning Trigger - Assembled

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:21:10 +0000

Revenki has posted:

Ready to go.

Just needs the programming, which is mostly done.

Lightning Trigger - Maximum Density

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:19:52 +0000

Revenki has posted:

As my supplies of profanity were rapidly running out, I finally got the thing packaged.

And wonder of wonders, when I ran the test program, all of the switches and sensors and LED colors worked, despite the abuse involved in shoehorning everything into the box.

Note the stacked washers under what was going to be a sleek and discreet surface-mounted arming button. This is what I get for doing test fits without the Arduino mounted - one corner just barely interfered with the body of the switch. Two nylon washers, one cc of epoxy, and much carving with the dremel took care of that last fit-up hiccup.

Just underneath, you can see the hot-shoe mount. I foolishly expected that *that* would be the hard part of this project.

Lightning Trigger - Squiddie

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:18:24 +0000

Revenki has posted:

The unit is based around an Arduino Micro microcontroller, and uses two MC3041 optoisolators to drive the focus and shutter lines for the Nikons (via commonly available camera-specific cords from Aputure). All very simple.

Until you try to fit it all into a tiny box that will mount on the hot shoe.

As it went together, the unit sans enclosure took on the unpleasant look and feel of an electronic squid-like creature.

Here it is, ready for its first test fit in the housing. After which I would expend a great deal more profanity in the process of rewiring two of the slide switches and the remote jack.

The loose wires are for the indicator light, which I knew better than to try to wire up before getting everything else fit.

Lightning Trigger - Parts

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:17:09 +0000

Revenki has posted:

Not shown are the RGB LED and associated current-limiting resistors I switched to late in the day, the washers I had to add under the trigger button, and the fine-gauge (26?) wire I had to switch to in order to fit everything in. Oh, and copious heat-shrink tubing.

And no, I didn't recognize the need to change the wire gauge until after I'd had all the switches pigtailed and test fit into the box.

Lightning Trigger - Housing

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:15:49 +0000

Revenki has posted:

The results of three hours of work with a drill, a dremel, hand files, and profanity.

Putting the 9V battery inside the case meant replacing the countersunk screws that came with the box with finger-turnable socket-head cap screws. Unfortunately, being #4 screws, they aren't very finger-turnable and will need to be replaced with thumbscrews or something in the future.

All that's missing here is the tiny poke-hole for the reset button, which I added after the unit was built up (needed to know for sure where the Arduino button ended up).

Lightning Trigger - Housing

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:14:26 +0000

Revenki has posted:

I think I needed a box about 5mm larger in all three dimensions. The switch positions were dictated by the limited space around the 9V battery, which itself just barely fits under the cover.

This is what happens when you see all those extra Arduino pins going unused and decide to add functionality.

WS2812B + ATmega168/328 breakout

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Fri, 18 Oct 2013 13:23:04 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

Bare PCBs may be available on tindie.

Mo-Co Dolly, Rough Assembly

nobody@ipernity.com (Revenki) — Sat, 19 May 2012 23:09:40 +0000

Revenki has posted:

A test assembly of the in-work motion control dolly. Not everything is bolted down tightly yet, this was just to see if it would all go together, and when it did, if it would run.

And run it did.

Took a little more power to drive the carriage than I thought it would, but the motor shield on the Arduino didn't even get noticeably above room temperature (unlike the other one whose bridge I burned out with no load on the motor -- oops).

The Delrin coupling seems to be a tiny bit off-centered, but it's just a fit-up problem -- close enough to proceed with finishing the assorted aluminum bits and wiring up the limit switches.

RGB Matrix V3.04 - back

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:01:09 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

Slightly updated PCB. Now the boards are blue, the pads are gold plated, only 1mm thick and the silkscreen has been revised and now shows Arduino pin functions for PORTC and PORTD.

This batch of 25 boards was made by MakePCB.com - very affordable but also quite slow. My first order took about 5 weeks. GoldPhoenix just took about 1 week, but at a higher price.

RGB Matrix V3.03 - fully assembled

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Sat, 18 Apr 2009 01:09:18 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

The new V3.03 boards now support auto reset (and disabling it with a jumper) and use 74HC595 instead of 74HCT595. This adds some brightness to the matrix and gives much better white light reproduction. Also I've fixed a minor pin offset in the LED matrix connectors. The silkscreen was also updated and now shows the correct outline of the LED matrix. Pin-1 markers for all relevant components have been enhanced as well.

RGB Matrix V3.03

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:00:51 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

BTW, I always have a few left. Interested ?
See my blog for more info.

RGB Matrix V3.03

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:00:42 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

BTW, I always have a few left. Interested ?
See my blog for more info.

*rduino stamp V2

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 00:29:41 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

FrOSCon 2009 called for Arduino submissions. Some people were thinking to go there. I though having small Arduino like clones to give away would be nice. Official minis/nanos are just too expensive.

*rduino stamp

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 19:12:46 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

FrOSCon 2009 called for Arduino submissions. Some people were thinking to go there. I though having small Arduino like clones to give away would be nice. Official minis/nanos are just too expensive.

Who needs cheap MSOP10/TSSOP8 to DIP adapters ?

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:53:08 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

I think I need some, but can't find affordable ones. So I'm inclined to have some made, so the price per board gets really cheap (less than 50¢). First side: MSOP10, second side: TSSOP8

This is just in the planning phase and production may take a few weeks. You've been warned.

Interested ? Drop me a message!

LED module

nobody@ipernity.com (.:madworm:.) — Thu, 17 Jan 2013 19:52:32 +0000

.:madworm:. has posted:

Fed up with wiring up LEDs just for debugging code. Now it's just 'plug-n-play'.

Shipping of the boards took 4 weeks again ;-(

A few theories:

1) Mailing in December simply sucks
2) Someone at the customs office hates me
3) New regulations to pester people by delaying shipments
4) Extensive scanning of mail for illegal / hazardous substances
5) Some sort of conspiracy against purple PC-boards
6) All of the above

A simple Arduino-library for the MBI5030 can be found on github.